Key Takeaways from the Luxury Law Summit – Milan 2025

From gatekeepers to business partners

Building on the discussion started at the London session of the summit in June, the panel of general counsels emphasized how legal departments are now fully integrated in business decision-making. As one speaker noted, the role of lawyers is no longer to stay close to the business, but rather to sit at the board.

This shift, however, is not universal. In some markets, the Office of the General Counsel still plays a mainly technical role. Yet, recent global crises have shown that legal input is crucial not only for compliance but also for ethical decision-making and business continuity. In others, such as Italy, this function has become particularly strategic, given the strong role and sometimes restrictive stance of regulatory authorities, whose decisions can represent a real business stopper.

Evolving skills and added value

The legal function is evolving from compliance gatekeeper to strategic advisor. Beyond legal analysis, general counsels must manage cross-function teams and projects, navigate internal politics, and closely coordinate with other departments.

At the same time, legal teams face the challenge of demonstrating measurable value. As several speakers observed, “Legal is still perceived as a cost center.” However, performance indicators can and should be developed, particularly in areas such as litigation and intellectual property. Prevention remains key — class actions and reputational crises can be far more costly than early legal intervention.

Leadership and clarity

A memorable image from Fendi described the legal function as “a dune — solid yet fragile, always changing.”

Leadership, in this sense, also means knowing when to say no — choosing to engage only where the department can add real value and being transparent about limitations. Bringing clarity to complexity and structuring processes emerged as essential skills for today’s in-house lawyers.

Partnerships and brand collaborations

Another central theme was strategic partnerships — from co-branding to cross-sector collaborations. For fashion and automotive brands alike, partnerships are no longer just about revenue, but about shared values and brand identity.

In-house experiences highlighted the increasing complexity of these deals, which encompass intellectual property, product responsibility, and distribution. Some companies even rely on algorithms to assess the risk level of a partnership before approval to protect brand reputation.

IP, dupes, and brand protection

The rise of “dupes” — imitation products that closely mimic luxury originals — is reshaping IP strategies. Brands are increasingly investing in protecting not only trademarks, but also packaging, product design, and marketing claims. Still, as one participant noted, “We must make consumers dream of the original, not the imitation.”

AI and the future of legal practice

Artificial intelligence was another major topic. The industry’s approach remains optimistic yet cautious. AI is viewed as a support tool that must be properly understood to manage risks. At the same time, brands recognize that preventing employees from using AI entirely is becoming almost impossible. Consequently, the role of legal teams is now to ensure responsible use, promoting transparency and guarding against bias and overreliance — particularly in areas such as CRM, personalization, and product liability.

Cross-functional teams and internal AI policies are becoming standard, ensuring that technology enhances rather than replaces legal insight.

Conclusion

The Luxury Law Summit reaffirmed that, in the luxury industry — perhaps more than in any other sector — the legal function must combine ethics, strategy, and creativity. From brand collaborations to AI governance, lawyers are no longer backstage advisors but co-authors of the business vision.